107-year-old tattoo artist turns hidden village into an tourist hub

Before the pandemic, she usually completed 14 tattoos before lunch and received 20-30 customers a day.

Whang-Od was taught by her father, who was considered a master tattoo artist in the region. Traditionally, only men with specific tattooing ancestry were allowed to learn the art. Whang-Od was an exception because her father recognized her talent and potential. Photo: guidetothephilippines.ph

Apo Whang-Od Oggay, born on February 17, 1917, has lived a life rich in tradition and artistry. Known to many as Maria Oggay, she’s the last living artist skilled in the ancient art of mambabatok tattooing—a practice that has been passed down through generations of the Butbut tribe in the remote village of Buscalan, tucked away in the mountains of Kalinga province, Philippines. But Whang-od isn't just a tattoo artist; she's a living legend, a symbol of Filipino culture, and an icon whose influence is felt worldwide.

Award from the president

President Ferdinand Marcos Jr. honored Apo Whang-Od by awarding her the Presidential Medal of Merit on February 14, 2024, in recognition of her significant contributions to Philippine traditional arts.

During the ceremony, President Marcos described Apo Whang-Od as a national treasure and praised her for breaking gender stereotypes by venturing into tattooing, a field traditionally dominated by men.

The award was presented during the Civil Service Commission’s Honor Awards Program, which recognizes individuals who have displayed outstanding work performance and ethical behavior.

International attentation

Although her reputation has been well-known throughout the Philippines for years, it is only in recent years that she has gained global recognition.

Whang-Od has earned widespread recognition through TV channels, international newspapers, and magazines that have highlighted her role as a cultural ambassador and living legend.

She was featured in a 2009 documentary by anthropologist Lars Krutak, aired on Discovery Channel. According to lore and interviews with Krutak, Whang-Od began her journey as a tattooist at the age of 16, under the guidance of her father. As the first and only female mambabatok of her time, she would travel to distant and neighboring villages, called upon by communities to imprint the sacred symbols of their ancestors on those who were undergoing significant life transitions. This tradition, which she continues today, connects individuals with their heritage in a deeply spiritual way.

Since then, the artist and the tribe have received researchers and tourists from all over the world. Visitors are encouraged to bring food, medicine, and matches, which the people of Buscalan need in their daily lives.

Appear on Vogue cover

In April 2023 she graced the cover of Vogue Philippines' Beauty Issue. This milestone made her the oldest individual to appear on a Vogue cover.

She said to the magazine about continuing her craft: «Why not keep tattooing while I can see? I'll only stop when I can no longer see, so I can continue to give people the mark of Buscalan, the mark of Kalinga.»

The journey to Buscalan

She lives far north in the country, in the village of Buscalan in the municipality of Tinglayan in Kalinga province, part of the Cordillera Administrative Region on Luzon, the largest island in the Philippines.

The journey from Manila to Buscalan typically takes around 16 to 17 hours by land. This includes the travel time by bus from Manila to Tabuk, followed by a jeepney or 4x4 ride to reach Buscalan. The duration may vary depending on road conditions, traffic, and the specific route taken. If there’s minimal traffic, the trip could be slightly shorter, but it's important to be prepared for a long and sometimes challenging journey due to the mountainous terrain.

If you’re up for an adventure, a trip to Buscalan is worth it. Located far in the northern Philippines, getting there is no small feat. From the bustling capital, Manila, it takes 16-17 hours to drive, with some narrow, cliff-side roads that add to the thrill.

Easier access with new bridge

A new suspension bridge and path, financed by actor-politician Robin Padilla, have made it significantly easier to reach the village. Before the bridge and path opened three months ago, visitors wishing to meet Whang-od had to spend an hour walking through mud, rocks, and rice fields in this area.

The 137-meter-long suspension bridge has been a great help to the elderly and those carrying heavy luggage, as well as in emergency situations. Previously, rescue teams had to use helicopters to reach the village.

Padilla visited Whang-od in Buscalan about a year ago, where local officials requested support for the construction.

«It is an honour to visit you and be with you. We will fulfil your wishes for Buscalan» Padilla said to Whang-od at the time.

Construction of the bridge and path began early this year and was completed at the end of July.

In July 2024, she sustained a hand injury, necessitating surgery and temporarily halting her tattooing activities. Despite this setback, she continues to engage with visitors, sharing her rich cultural heritage. Photo: Lee, Flickr, CC BY 2.0

Rich traditions

The tribal identity and the rich traditions and expressions of music, dance, and craftsmanship in the area remain strong, despite the country being colonized by Spain for 300 years. The ancient tattooing method, known as «mambabatok,» is one of these craft traditions. Mambabatok is also a professional title. 107 year-old Whang-od Oggay began tattooing in 1932 when she was 15 years old and is known as the last mambabatok tattoo artist, carrying on the 1,000-year-old tradition.

Home to many over 100 Years old

Although Whang-Od is undoubtedly the last mambabatok in the country who knows the songs behind the tattoo symbols, she is not the oldest resident of the tribe. That honor belongs to Apo Oop, who is now 109 years old. The previous eldest villager died at 114 years old in December last year.

«It’s common to live past 100,» says Estella Palangdao, Whang-Od's trusted niece, to the newspaper Manila Bulletin. Estella is Whang-Od’s grandniece and caretaker. When a tribe member retires, he or she is honoured by giving their name as a nickname to one of the village’s children. This naming is also considered an honour for the child, and it provides the tribe with a sense of immortality.

Reopened after the pandemic

In January 2022, Whang-od reopened for tourists after isolating herself during the pandemic, according to Manila Bulletin.

The tourist spots in Buscalan are related to the tattoo industry, with Whang-od as the primary attraction. The village has recently opened a museum that displays plaques, fans, and a large resin statue. The museum is planned to be her final resting place, but she is still a living legend to her 282,000 Facebook followers (January 2025). She could almost be described as a superstar in her homeland. Estella Palangdao told Manila Bulletin that she ensures Whang-od is not exploited.

«To prevent her from being taken advantage of by tourists, each tour group is given a number and asked to wait their turn» explains Estella, adding that Whang-od also takes breaks when she eats or does what she wants or needs to do, such as watching her hero Coco Martin in the Filipino action series Ang Probinsyano.

Despite her global fame and recognition, Apo Whang-Od has remained deeply rooted in her humble origins. While she has received accolades and honors, including a Presidential Medal of Merit and international attention, her lifestyle has not changed significantly. Whang-Od continues to live simply in the remote village of Buscalan, Kalinga, where she practices the traditional mambabatok tattooing. Her wealth is not measured in material possessions, but rather in her cultural influence, the preservation of an ancient Filipino tradition, and the respect she commands from people around the world. Photo: Lee, Flickr, CC BY 2.0

Thorn from a citrus tree

Whang-od’s tattoo ink is made from soot and water. When mixed, it is tapped into the skin using a thorn from a citrus tree — either calamansi or pomelo. The thorn is then attached to a 30-centimeter-long bamboo stick, and from there, she begins tapping it deep into your skin. She has 20 different designs to choose from. Each design is a symbol specific to mambabatok culture. Even though headhunters no longer exist, Whang-od still applies these tattoos to tourists.

Before the pandemic, she usually completed 14 tattoos before lunch and received 20-30 visitors per day. The price is typically $20, but it varies depending on the tattoo’s size. You might need to pay a little extra for Whang-od’s signature.

The tattoo requires some bravery, as the session can be painful depending on your body’s tolerance.

Unmarried and no children

When Whang-od was very young, she had a boyfriend named Ang-Batang, a Butbut warrior who was the love of her life. She performed a batok (tattoo) on Ang-Batang after his first victory in battle. Many of the tribe’s elders opposed her relationship with Ang-Batang, believing that his bloodline was not pure.

Ang-Batang later married Whang-od’s friend in an arranged marriage. She then decided never to marry and therefore has no children, leaving no direct descendants to continue her legacy as a mambabatok tattoo artist. Ang-Batang died at 25 in a logging accident. Though she had relationships with other Kalinga warriors, she remained unmarried because of her vow.

Grace Palicas, the grandniece and senior apprentice of the legendary mambabatok tattoo artist Apo Whang-Od, is one of the leading figures in preserving and passing down the ancient art of hand-tapped tattoos. As a key apprentice, she plays a crucial role in ensuring that the tradition continues, teaching a new generation about the cultural significance and intricate techniques of this traditional Filipino tattoo art. Photo: guidetothephilippines.ph

Carrying the tradition forward

According to tradition, her tattooing skills can only be passed down through bloodlines. Whang-od believes that if someone outside the bloodline begins tattooing, the tattoos will become infected. Twenty local girls are now in training to ensure the tradition lives on, including her grandniece, Grace Palicas, who is one of her apprentices.

Grace Palicas is now in forefront of a growing movement to preserve and teach mambabatok tattooing. The demand for hand-tapped tattoos has surged, with people from both the Philippines and around the world traveling to Kalinga to learn from Whang-Od and her apprentices. These learners come from various backgrounds, with some seeking to preserve their heritage and others interested in mastering the art of traditional tattooing. This growing interest ensures that mambabatok remains alive, with a new generation of tattoo artists taking on the responsibility of carrying the craft into the future.

Eagle tattoo for a slain enemy

Batok was practiced by almost all ethnic groups on the Philippine islands before the colonial period. Among others, Whang-od tattooed headhunters from the Butbut tribe. The headhunters were warriors who protected the villages of the various tribes in the region. A warrior who killed an enemy would, for example, receive an eagle tattoo upon returning from battle. Whang-od also tattooed the women of the tribe. Tattoos are considered a sign of beauty and elegance. During her early years of tattooing, she would always sing while she worked. But today, she no longer sings when tattooing tourists, as the songs are solely meant to beautify Kalinga women and to celebrate Kalinga men’s victories in battle.

Ecological and pollution-free environment

According to Estella Palangdao, Whang-od’s lifestyle may be the key to her long life. Their diet is primarily organic, and the mountain area is pollution-free, with fresh streams and river water. Though the village doesn’t have great access to fruit, Estella explains that they never use chemicals in their rice fields, only chopped wild sunflowers as fertilizer.

Grace Palicas focused on her work: Mambabatok tattooing, the traditional hand-tapped technique, involves using a bamboo stick, a thorn, or other tools to tap ink into the skin, often making the process more painful than modern tattooing methods. The pain level varies depending on individual tolerance and the area of the body being tattooed. For many, the experience is seen as part of the ritual and cultural significance of the tattoo, with some describing it as sharp, intense, but bearable. The sense of connection to tradition and culture often outweighs the discomfort. Photo: Lee, Flickr, CC BY 2.0

«Whang-od and the other elders are mostly vegetarians, but she indulges in eating meat from time to time» says Estella. She also highlights that children are taught hard work early on, which she believes may also contribute to their long lifespans. Whang-od worked extensively in the rice fields until she was 80 years old, but she stepped away from the hard labour as she gained fame, and an increasing number of foreign customers came to visit for tattoos. Estella believes Whang-od’s longevity can also be attributed to her positive and calm nature, even despite heartbreak.

«And even at her age, Whang-od has never stopped dreaming» says Estella, pointing out that she recently built new houses and a makeshift swimming pool beside the museum for the children’s enjoyment. She has also bought herself a new car, and cows and pigs are slaughtered for a feast whenever there's something to celebrate.

Reaching the remote village of Buscalan in Kalinga is a journey that takes travelers deep into the heart of the Cordillera Mountains. The trip typically begins with a bus ride from Manila to Tabuk, the capital of Kalinga, followed by a jeepney ride through winding mountain roads, offering breathtaking views of lush forests and terraced fields. As the road narrows and the journey becomes more challenging, the excitement builds for the chance to experience one of the Philippines' most culturally rich destinations. Photo: Lee, Flickr, CC BY 2.0

Journey to Buscalan: Discover the heart of filipino culture

Nestled in the remote mountains of Kalinga, the village of Buscalan is home to one of the Philippines' most iconic figures, Apo Whang-Od.

For those seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure, Buscalan is the perfect destination. The chance to meet Whang-Od and learn about the ancient art of tattooing is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and the natural beauty of Kalinga adds to the allure. From the stunning landscapes to the rich cultural heritage, Buscalan is a place where the spirit of the Filipino people comes alive. Whether you’re there for the tattoos, the views, or the warmth of the locals, Buscalan promises an unforgettable journey into the heart of the Philippines.

Buscalan is a remote village located in the municipality of Tinglayan in the province of Kalinga in the Cordillera region. Google Maps estimates 9 hours and 28 minutes, but heavy traffic and poor roads in the northern part make the trip longer, at least 14 to 16 hours. If using your own car, there are opportunities to stop at several fantastic places, such as Baguio (1,500 meters above sea level) and the rice terraces in Banaue.

Dramatic landscapes

The Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) is a mountainous area in northern Luzon, famous for its and rich cultural heritage.

It’s home to towering mountains, verdant forests, rushing rivers, and ancient rice terraces carved into the landscape by indigenous people for over two millennia.

Kalinga, one of the provinces in this region, is known for its picturesque hills, deep valleys, and tranquil rivers. Its rugged terrain and cool climate make it an ideal place to preserve traditions, and it’s here that you’ll find Buscalan, a village perched high in the mountains, surrounded by stunning rice terraces and natural beauty.

The Banaue Rice Terraces, often referred to as the «Eighth Wonder of the World,» are a breathtaking testament to the ingenuity of the Ifugao people. Carved into the mountainsides over 2,000 years ago, these terraces stretch across the rugged landscape, showcasing a harmonious blend of nature and human craftsmanship. Still used for rice farming today, they are not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site but also a symbol of the deep cultural heritage and sustainable farming practices that have been passed down through generations. The Banaue Rice Terraces are about a 3 to 4-hour drive away from Buscalan, Kalinga, depending on the road conditions. Photo by Omri D. Cohen on Unsplash

The history of Kalinga and Buscalan

The history of Kalinga, including Buscalan, is one of defiance and preservation. During the Spanish colonial period, the region was largely untouched by colonization, as the mountainous terrain and strong resistance from the Kalinga people made it difficult for colonizers to establish control. This allowed the Kalinga communities to preserve their traditional ways of life, including their distinct social structures, rituals, and agricultural practices.

Historically, the Kalinga were known as fierce warriors and headhunters, a practice that was deeply symbolic and tied to tribal honor and protection. Although headhunting ceased in the mid-20th century, its legacy lives on in cultural expressions such as dances, chants, and rituals that celebrate bravery and unity.

Agriculture and the role of the rice terraces

Agriculture, particularly rice farming, has been the backbone of life in Buscalan and the greater Cordillera region. The rice terraces, carved meticulously into the mountainsides, are not only a source of sustenance but also a testament to the ingenuity and hard work of the local communities. These terraces, which have been cultivated for generations, demonstrate an intricate understanding of irrigation and land management, making them a UNESCO World Heritage site and a symbol of sustainable farming practices.

Buscalan, a remote village in Kalinga, is home to approximately 1,500 to 2,000 residents. Most of the people in Buscalan are farmers, cultivating rice, corn, and vegetables on the terraced fields that have been passed down through generations. Some also engage in traditional crafts, including weaving and the famous mambabatok tattooing, which has gained global recognition due to Apo Whang-Od. The community lives in harmony with their natural surroundings, maintaining a lifestyle that is deeply rooted in their indigenous culture and traditions. Photo: guidetothephilippines.ph

Here are details about the journey to Buscalan: Guide to the Philippines

Cultural practices and community life

The culture of Buscalan and Kalinga revolves around a deep connection to the land and a strong sense of community. Traditional houses, made of wood and thatch, reflect the simplicity and practicality of the local lifestyle. Villagers gather for festivals and rituals that mark important events such as harvests, weddings, and rites of passage. Music and dance play a significant role in these celebrations, with gongs and indigenous instruments providing the rhythmic heartbeat of the festivities.

Tattooing, while famously associated with Whang-Od, is just one aspect of Kalinga's rich cultural tapestry. Weaving is another prominent tradition, with intricate patterns that tell stories of the weaver's community and heritage. These textiles are often dyed using natural materials, showcasing the community's resourcefulness and creativity.

Oral traditions and language

The Kalinga people have a rich oral tradition, passing down stories, genealogies, and wisdom through generations. Elders are highly respected for their knowledge and are often the keepers of local legends and historical narratives. The Kalinga language, part of the Austronesian language family, remains a vital part of daily life, reflecting the community's distinct identity and connection to their ancestors.

Modern challenges and resilience

While Buscalan and the Cordillera region remain bastions of tradition, they also face modern challenges, such as the influence of globalization, migration, and environmental pressures.

However, the people of Buscalan continue to adapt while staying true to their roots. Efforts to preserve cultural practices, promote eco-tourism, and educate the younger generation about their heritage are helping to ensure that the rich history and culture of this region endure for years to come.

Bugnay Village, located near Buscalan, offers a glimpse into the rural life of the Kalinga people. Known for its picturesque landscapes, traditional bamboo houses, and farming communities, it’s a peaceful retreat for those seeking an authentic Cordillera experience. The surrounding villages, including Tinglayan, Lubuagan, and Tabuk, also offer cultural richness and stunning views of rice terraces, mountains, and rivers. These villages, nestled in the heart of Kalinga, are not only beautiful but also steeped in history, with many locals preserving their indigenous customs and traditions. Photo: David Stanley, Flickr,

Buscalan and its surrounding areas are more than just picturesque landscapes—they are living museums of Filipino heritage, where every terrace, festival, and woven cloth tells a story of resilience, harmony, and pride in tradition.

How to get there by bus

Getting to Buscalan requires a bit of effort, but the journey is worth every step. Travelers typically begin by taking a 4–6 hour bus ride from Manila to Baguio, a popular city in the region. From there, it’s another 6–8 hour bus ride to Tabuk, the capital of Kalinga, followed by a 2–3 hour drive to Buscalan. The roads to the village can be rough, but the recent construction of a new 137-meter suspension bridge and pathways, funded by actor-politician Robin Padilla, has made the journey easier and more accessible.

The price for a bus from Manila to Buscalan can vary depending on the bus company, the type of service, and the route taken. On average, the bus fare for a one-way trip to Tabuk (the nearest major town to Buscalan) typically ranges from PHP 400 to PHP 800.

After reaching Tabuk, you'll need to take a jeepney or 4x4 vehicle to Buscalan, which can cost around PHP 150 to PHP 300 for the 1.5 to 2-hour ride. The total cost for the journey from Manila to Buscalan, including bus and jeepney fares, could be around PHP 600 to PHP 1,100 one-way.

You can also use a sleeper bus. These are typically operated by companies like Florida Bus and Victory Liner.

Sleeper buses offer a more comfortable and convenient option for the long journey, with seats that can recline into a more horizontal position, allowing passengers to rest more easily during the overnight trip. The fares for sleeper buses can be higher than regular buses, usually ranging from PHP 800 to PHP 1,200 one-way, depending on the bus company and service class.

For those seeking an adventurous road trip, the rugged terrain offers an unforgettable experience, though it’s advisable to check road conditions, especially during the rainy season.

How to get there by airplane

If you opt to travel by airplane, the trip from Manila to Buscalan would be faster, but it still requires additional land travel to reach the village.

Here's the breakdown:

Flight from Manila to Tuguegarao or Tabuk:You can fly from Ninoy Aquino International Airport (Manila) to Tuguegarao Airport or Tabuk Airport. The flight typically takes around 1 to 1.5 hours.

Land Travel from airport to Buscalan: From Tuguegarao or Tabuk, you would still need to travel by jeepney or 4x4 vehicle to reach Buscalan, which can take around 3 to 4 hours due to the rugged mountain roads.

So, with a combination of flight and land travel, the total journey could take about 5 to 6 hours (flight time plus land travel), but it's important to note that flights to Tuguegarao or Tabuk may not run frequently, and the last leg of the journey will still be quite challenging due to the terrain.

The Tinglayan Rice Terraces, nestled in the mountains of Kalinga, are a breathtaking sight, showcasing the ingenuity and agricultural practices of the Ifugao people. These terraces, sculpted into the mountainside over centuries, are still actively farmed today. Flowing nearby, the Chico River adds to the region's natural beauty, offering stunning views and opportunities for exploration. The river, with its clear waters and lush surroundings, serves as both a vital water source and a picturesque backdrop to the terraces, making Tinglayan and its river an unforgettable destination for nature and culture enthusiasts alike. Photo: David, Stanley, Flickr, CC BY 2.0

Places to visit

While Whang-Od is undoubtedly the main attraction, there are plenty of other places worth exploring in the region:

Banaue Rice Terraces: These 2,000-year-old terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage site, offer a fascinating glimpse into the ingenuity of the indigenous Ifugao people who built them by hand.
Chico River: A peaceful river winding through Kalinga, perfect for kayaking or simply taking in the serene surroundings.
Tinglayan: The municipality where Buscalan is located, known for its picturesque villages and cultural richness.

Accommodation and restaurants

In Buscalan, accommodation options are limited, with most visitors staying in homestays offered by local families. These simple but welcoming stays allow visitors to experience traditional Kalinga life and interact with the community. Rooms are basic, but the hospitality and authenticity of the experience more than make up for it.

For meals, visitors can enjoy traditional Kalinga dishes such as pinikpikan (a chicken dish), sinigang (sour soup), and locally grown rice-based meals. Small eateries and food stalls in Buscalan serve fresh and authentic local cuisine.

When visiting Buscalan and its surrounding areas in Kalinga,we mentioned that accommodations primarily consist of homestays, offering an authentic experience of local life.

GL's Crib & Coffee is a charming stop for visitors traveling to Buscalan, offering a warm and welcoming atmosphere to rest and enjoy local coffee. With its cozy setting and stunning mountain views, it’s the perfect place to relax after a long journey. Whether you're looking to enjoy a fresh cup of coffee or simply unwind, GL's Crib & Coffee provides a peaceful respite in the heart of the Cordillera. It is just a short walk, around 10 to 15 minutes, from GL's Crib & Coffee to where Apo Whang-Od practices her mambabatok tattooing. GL's Crib & Coffee in Buscalan offers simple accommodations for travelers. Photo: airbnb.co.in

GL's Crib & Coffee, Buscalan

Offers accommodations with mountain views, a garden, and a terrace. Guests can enjoy complimentary Robusta coffee during their stay.

Buscalan Tattoo Homestay with Bonfire, Buscalan

Provides lodging with the added experience of a bonfire, enhancing the cultural immersion in the village.

Grand Zion Garden Resort Hotel, Tabuk

A popular hotel in Kalinga Province, offering comfortable accommodations and amenities for travelers.

M Hotel Tabuk offers a convenient and comfortable accommodation option for travelers visiting Kalinga. Located in the capital city of Tabuk, the hotel provides modern amenities and a welcoming atmosphere, making it an ideal base for those exploring the region, including the nearby Buscalan village. With its accessible location, M Hotel Tabuk offers a mix of comfort and convenience, ensuring a pleasant stay for both business and leisure travelers. Photo: facebook.com/mhoteltabuk

M Hotel Tabuk, Tabuk

Known for its hospitality and convenient location, providing guests with modern facilities.

Golden Berries Hotel and Convention Center, Tabuk

Offers a range of services including comfortable rooms and event spaces, catering to various traveler needs.

Dining options in Buscalan are limited, with meals often provided by homestay hosts, featuring traditional local cuisine. For a wider variety of restaurants, consider exploring nearby towns such as Bugnay and Tinglayan.

Hidden Garden Lilong and Lilang Restaurant, Bugnay

Offers a serene dining experience with a menu featuring local dishes in a garden setting.

Saramsam Ylocano Restaurant & Bar, Tinglayan

Serves Ilocano cuisine with a modern twist, providing a unique culinary experience.

Please note that the availability of accommodations and dining options may vary, and it's advisable to contact the establishments directly or consult recent reviews for the most up-to-date information.

Did you know that...

The disappearing headhunting tradition

While headhunting was officially abolished in Kalinga by the mid-20th century, whispers about the last documented tribal conflicts linger in the oral history of the region. Villagers tell tales of secret peace pacts forged between clans in the 1970s to ensure the safety of their communities. These pacts, often sealed with rituals and the planting of native trees, continue to guide inter-tribal relations today.

The rice terraces' silent crisis

Though the rice terraces of Kalinga are symbols of the region's ingenuity, a quiet struggle emerged in the 1980s when younger generations began leaving for urban areas. These terraces, requiring painstaking maintenance, faced neglect, leading to partial erosion. Local elders spearheaded initiatives to preserve the terraces, with global organizations stepping in during the 1990s. The terraces now stand as both a symbol of cultural pride and a warning about the challenges of modernization.

Sacred burial sites and «living forests»

The Cordillera region, including Kalinga, is dotted with sacred burial sites hidden deep within its forests. Many of these locations were uncovered during the construction of roads in the 1980s and 1990s. Some elders claim these sites hold artifacts and relics dating back centuries, but they remain closely guarded secrets, with access restricted by tribal elders. These burial grounds are said to be «living forests,» where trees grow undisturbed, believed to protect the spirits of ancestors.

The revival of Kalinga weaving

In the 1990s, Kalinga weaving faced a decline as synthetic fabrics became more popular. However, a group of women from Buscalan began a revival, drawing attention to their intricate, handwoven textiles. Their designs, often inspired by nature and tribal patterns, have since gained international recognition. The weaving tradition is now a key source of income and cultural pride for many families in the village.

The peaceful revolution of the 1980s

During the Martial Law era in the Philippines, the Cordillera region witnessed its own form of quiet resistance. Elders and local leaders organized secret meetings to protest large-scale logging and mining projects that threatened ancestral lands. These movements led to the creation of the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) in 1987, granting indigenous peoples greater control over their territories.

The mysterious lights of Tinglayan

Reports of mysterious lights appearing in the skies above Tinglayan, near Buscalan, have been shared for decades. Villagers call them «Dap-ay Lights," claiming they are signals from spirits or ancient deities. While skeptics suggest natural explanations, such as atmospheric phenomena, the sightings remain a point of fascination and mystery.

The rise of Buscalan as a cultural hub

In the early 2000s, Buscalan transitioned from a quiet, remote village into a cultural hotspot. This transformation was spurred not just by Apo Whang-Od's fame but also by local efforts to promote eco-tourism. Homestays and cultural immersion programs flourished, offering visitors a chance to learn about Kalinga traditions beyond tattooing, including cooking, farming, and weaving.

The hidden waterfalls of Kalinga

Although the Cordillera region is famous for its rice terraces, few know about its hidden waterfalls. Villagers in Buscalan speak of secluded cascades like the Tekip Falls, believed to have healing properties. Some of these falls are accessible only by trekking through dense forests, making them treasured secrets of the community.

The «Coffee Revolution»

In recent years, Buscalan has become known for its unique coffee blends. In the late 2010s, villagers began cultivating robusta coffee, which grew well in the highlands' climate. This initiative turned into a small-scale coffee industry, with visitors enjoying freshly brewed coffee as part of their Buscalan experience. The coffee, grown and roasted locally, is now a sought-after souvenir.

The elders who live past 100

Buscalan is home to many centenarians, often attributed to their simple lifestyle, fresh mountain air, and reliance on traditional, organic food. These elders are revered as living treasures, carrying stories of resilience and wisdom that span over a century. Some even recall firsthand accounts of pre-colonial rituals and practices that have since faded from common knowledge.

Political issues last 50 years

Chco river dam One of the most significant political struggles in Kalinga's recent history was the resistance to the Chico river dam project during the 1970s and 1980s. Proposed during the Marcos regime, the project aimed to build a series of hydroelectric dams along the Chico River. However, it threatened to displace thousands of indigenous Kalinga and Bontoc communities and submerge vast tracts of ancestral land.

The Chico River Dam struggle stands as a powerful testament to the resilience of the indigenous peoples of the Cordillera. Faced with the threat of displacement and destruction of their ancestral lands during the 1970s and 1980s, tribal communities united to protect their sacred river. This historic resistance, led by courageous leaders like Macli-ing Dulag, not only halted the dam project but also ignited a nationwide movement for indigenous rights and environmental justice in the Philippines. Photo: Rodel Bontes, Flickr CC BY-SA 2.0

The resistance was fierce, with tribal leaders, including the legendary Macli-ing Dulag, organizing peaceful protests and asserting indigenous rights. Dulag famously declared that the land was not for sale, as it was sacred and belonged to their ancestors. In 1980, he was assassinated by military forces, which intensified the resistance. His death became a rallying point, eventually leading to the project's suspension and the strengthening of indigenous rights movements in the Philippines.

The struggle for indigenous autonomy

The Cordillera region has long fought for autonomy and recognition of its unique cultural and political identity. Following the Chico River Dam struggle, the Cordillera People's Liberation Army (CPLA) was formed in 1986. Initially a breakaway faction of the New People's Army (NPA), the CPLA sought autonomy for the Cordillera region through peaceful negotiations.

These efforts culminated in the creation of the Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) in 1987. However, full autonomy has yet to be achieved, and debates continue over the region's political future. Many indigenous groups argue for greater control over their resources and governance.

Mining and environmental conflicts

Kalinga and the wider Cordillera region have been a focal point of conflicts over mining and resource extraction. Large-scale mining operations have often been proposed in the region, threatening ancestral lands and fragile ecosystems. Local communities have resisted these projects, citing their right to Free, Prior, and Informed Consent (FPIC) under the Indigenous Peoples’ Rights Act (IPRA) of 1997.

While some projects have been stopped or delayed, the pressure from mining companies persists. Activists and tribal leaders have faced harassment and violence for opposing these operations, making the fight for environmental justice an ongoing struggle.

Militarization and tribal conflicts

The presence of insurgent groups like the New People’s Army (NPA) has led to militarization in parts of Kalinga and the Cordillera region. This has sometimes resulted in clashes between the military and rebels, with local communities caught in the crossfire.

Additionally, disputes over land and resources occasionally lead to tribal conflicts within Kalinga. While traditional peace pacts, such as the «Bodong,» are often used to mediate disputes, external influences have sometimes complicated these processes.

The struggle for ancestral land rights

Despite the passage of the IPRA in 1997, which recognizes the rights of indigenous peoples to their ancestral lands, the implementation of these laws has been inconsistent. In Kalinga, indigenous groups have fought legal battles to secure land titles and protect their territories from encroachment by corporations or government projects. The process is often lengthy and bureaucratic, creating frustration and mistrust among local communities.

Tourism and cultural preservation

While the rise of tourism in Buscalan has brought economic opportunities, it has also sparked debates about the commercialization of indigenous culture. Some locals feel that the influx of tourists disrupts their traditional way of life and risks turning sacred practices into mere attractions. Balancing economic benefits with cultural preservation remains a political and social challenge for the community.

Climate change and policy gaps

The effects of climate change, such as unpredictable weather and diminishing water supplies, have also become a political issue in the Cordillera region. The government has been criticized for not providing sufficient support to help communities adapt to these changes, especially in preserving the rice terraces and other agricultural systems.

These struggles highlight the resilience of the people of Buscalan, Kalinga, and the Cordillera region in defending their land, culture, and identity against external pressures. While progress has been made in some areas, many challenges remain, underscoring the importance of continued advocacy for indigenous rights and environmental protection.