Paul Theroux: A master of travel writing and adventure
- Paul Aage Hegvik
- Mar 16
- 17 min read
«Most travel, and certainly the rewarding kind, involves depending on the kindness of strangers, putting yourself into the hands of people you don't know and trusting them with your life»
This is one of Paul Theroux’s many descriptions of travel. In the modern literary world, few can compare to his travel and adventure literature. With a passion for exploring the far corners of the world and a unique ability to convey his experiences through writing, Theroux has established himself as one of the most influential travel writers of our time.
Bestseller after a train journey
Theroux began his writing career in the 1960s and quickly gained recognition for his sharp observations and vivid descriptions of foreign places. His debut novel Waldo was published in 1967, but his first major success came with The Great Railway Bazaar in 1975 where he recounted his travels by train through Asia. The book became an instant bestseller and established Theroux as a prominent voice in travel literature. It has since sold 1.5 million copies.
Since then, Theroux has continued to travel the world and write about his experiences. His writing style is a blend of personal reflection, storytelling, and sharp observation, making his works popular among readers worldwide.
Famous family
Paul Theroux was born in 1941 in Medford, Massachusetts, USA, and has six siblings. His mother, Anne Theroux, was an Italian-American grammar teacher and painter. His father, Albert Eugene Theroux, of French-Canadian descent, worked as a shoe salesman. His brothers are Eugene, Alexander, Joseph, and Peter. His sisters are Ann Marie and Mary. Alexander, two years older, is a writer and poet, while his younger brother Peter (born in 1956) is an American translator and author.
Paul attended Medford High School, followed by the University of Maine in Orono (1959–60), and the University of Massachusetts Amherst, where he earned a bachelor’s degree in English in 1963.He is the father of English-American authors and documentary filmmakers Marcel and Louis Theroux, the latter well-known in Norway for his various documentary series.
While in Uganda, he met Anne Castle, an English Ph.D. student teaching at a girls’ school in Kenya. They married in 1967. During his time in Uganda, Theroux and his pregnant wife were threatened by an angry mob during a demonstration, which eventually led him to leave Africa.
After the marriage ended in 1993, Theroux returned to the United States, where he has lived since.He married Sheila Donnelly in 1995. The couple now resides in Hawaii and Cape Cod, Massachusetts.
Early inspiration
Paul Theroux’s experience as a Peace Corps volunteer in Africa during the early 1960s shaped his perspective on the world and had a profound influence on his writing. Serving in Malawi as a teacher, Theroux encountered the challenges of working in a developing country, which exposed him to the complexities of cultural exchange, personal growth, and societal issues. This transformative period inspired much of his later work, including his novel The Mosquito Coast and his celebrated travel writing, where his sharp observations on human nature and the environment are evident."
Persona non grata
In Malawi, Theroux helped a political opponent of Prime Minister Hastings Banda escape to Uganda. This led to Theroux being expelled from Malawi and excluded from the Peace Corps in 1965. He was declared persona non grata by Banda in Malawi due to his sympathy with Yatuta Chisiza, a political activist and opponent of Banda's regime. As a result, his later novel Jungle Lovers, which deals with an attempted coup in the country, was banned in Malawi for many years. Hastings Kamuzu Banda was Prime Minister from 1964 to 1994. Banda was a key figure in Malawi’s independence movement from Britain and was one of the country's most dominant political figures throughout most of his time in power. During his rule, Malawi was often criticized for having an authoritarian regime with limited political freedoms and human rights violations. Banda was removed from power in a democratic election in 1994 and died in 1997.
Yatuta Chisiza was a leading figure in the opposition against Banda, fighting for democratic reforms and political freedom in the country. He was part of the political opposition that opposed Banda’s authoritarian rule and was persecuted by the government for his involvement in the opposition. Yatuta Chisiza died in 1967 under contested circumstances, and his death at that time led to further political unrest and repression in Malawi.
Marriages
After being expelled from Malawi, Theroux travelled to Uganda to teach English at Makerere University. There, he met Anne Castle, an English Ph.D. student who was teaching at a girls’ school in Kenya. The two married in 1967.
At the university, he also contributed to Transition Magazine, an African literary journal, where he developed a close relationship with Rajat Neogy, the magazine’s founder, and the renowned British writer and Nobel Prize winner Vidiadhar Surajprasad "V.S." Naipaul (1932–2018), who was a guest lecturer at the institution. Naipaul, of Hindu and West Indian descent, was born in Trinidad, which was then a British colony.
Naipaul and Theroux remained friends for 30 years. Naipaul expressed admiration for Theroux as both a writer and a traveller, though their relationship was also marked by conflicts and misunderstandings.
Naipaul said this about his friend:«Paul Theroux is a talented writer and an adept traveller. He has a unique ability to capture the essence of the places he visits and the people he meets. But like all writers, he has his own flaws and weaknesses. It is these aspects of his personality and work that make him a complex and interesting figure.»
While in Uganda, Theroux and his pregnant wife were threatened by an angry mob during a demonstration, which ultimately led him to leave Africa.
Experiences in Africa
Theroux visited many African countries in addition to Malawi and Uganda, including Kenya, Nigeria, South Africa, and Egypt. Several books depict Africa, including Dark Star Safari and The Last Train to Zona Verde, which take readers on thrilling adventures across the continent. In his descriptions of Africa, Theroux captures the essence of this diverse continent. He portrays the endless savannas, majestic mountains, and lush rainforests while also reflecting on the challenges and struggles that many African societies face.
Victoria Falls – on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe:
«When I stood at the edge of Victoria Falls, I was overwhelmed by the mighty force and beauty cascading down in an endless torrent of water, and I could feel the mist from the falls as a cool shower on my skin.»
Serengeti – north of Tanzania to southwest Kenya:
«On the Serengeti plain, the horizon stretched out infinitely, and I could see herds of wild animals moving in harmony with the untouched landscape, while the sun painted the sky in a palette of vibrant colours.»
Africa:
«In the Sahara Desert, I was overwhelmed by the endless landscape of golden sand and the astonishing formations created by the wind over centuries, making me feel as though I had stepped into another time and dimension.»
Tsingy de Bemaraha in Madagascar:
«At Tsingy de Bemaraha, the sharp limestone formations rising from the ground like razor-sharp spikes, I was captivated by the surreal beauty and unforgettable majesty of the landscape.»
Described hidden nightlife and prostitution
In November 1968, the family emigrated to Singapore along with their son Marcel, and later had their second child, Louis. Paul Theroux lived in Singapore from 1968 to 1971. During this time, he worked as a lecturer at the National University of Singapore. It was during this period that he wrote the novel Saint Jack, which was adapted into a film in 1979.
The novel was banned by the Singaporean government for 30 years due to its critical depiction of the country’s social and political conditions. The protagonist, Jack Flowers, is an American in early 1970s Singapore who dreams of amassing a fortune by running a brothel and returning to the U.S. to live a life of luxury.
The book portrays Singapore's hidden nightlife and prostitution in a way that the authorities deemed offensive and harmful to the country's reputation. Theroux’s candid and realistic description of the underground activities in the city was not well-received by the government. This led to the book being censored and banned from public distribution in Singapore for several decades. It was only in 2004, after more than 30 years of censorship, that the ban was lifted, and the book could finally be read freely in the country.
«The Great Railway Bazaar»
After his time in Singapore, Theroux and his family settled in England in November 1971, first in Dorset and later in South London.
Following his arrival in London in 1972, Theroux embarked on a remarkable train journey that took him from Britain to Japan and back. This adventure became famous through his book The Great Railway Bazaar, which marked his debut as a travel writer and is now regarded as a classic in the genre. During the journey, he visited countries like India, China, Japan, Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Vietnam. The route also included the famous «Hippie Trail,» a popular path for young travellers and hippies exploring Asia and other parts of the world.
Several of his books take place in Asia. One example is The Consul’s File from 1977. In Asia, Theroux focuses on the complex interactions between tradition and modernity. He describes ancient temples, bustling markets, and vibrant street kitchens, while also exploring the rapid changes and technological developments shaping many Asian countries.
Theroux describes India as a land of contrasts and intensity. He portrays its bustling city streets, colourful markets, and rich cultural heritage, while also reflecting on the more challenging aspects, such as poverty, overpopulation, and social inequality.
Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh:«Varanasi struck me as a place both timeless and unchanging, where ancient rituals melded with modern life in a ceaseless dance of human activity along the banks of the Ganges.»
Angkor Wat in Cambodia:«At sunrise, Angkor Wat was bathed in golden light, rising like an irresistible invitation to explore its mysterious corridors and intricate carvings. I felt as though I had discovered one of the world’s wonders in all its glory.»
Halong Bay in Vietnam:«In Halong Bay, I was awestruck by the dramatic limestone pillars rising from the calm waters like towering formations of nature’s architecture. I could only marvel at the beauty and tranquillity that defined this unique landscape.»
Jiuzhaigou Valley in China:«In Jiuzhaigou Valley, I was overwhelmed by the colourful lakes and waterfalls that reflected in the clear water. It felt as if I had stepped into a fairytale world of natural splendour and beauty.»
Capturing the small moments
Paul Theroux's books are filled with anecdotes and small stories, often told with a humorous touch.
In Riding the Iron Rooster: By Train Through China, Theroux recounts an experience after eating at a local street food stall in a bustling Asian city. He began to feel the first signs of food poisoning as he made his way back to his simple hotel room. What started as a mild discomfort in his stomach quickly escalated into severe cramps and an overwhelming need to rush to the bathroom.
In his typical style, Theroux described the situation with a mix of resignation and humor. He spent hours in the tiny bathroom, feeling like a prisoner trapped in his own body’s discomfort. He joked about how he had developed a more intimate relationship with the toilet bowl than he had ever wanted, and how he had to improvise solutions to his most basic needs while continuing to vomit and suffer from diarrhoea.
During another trip through China, Theroux was once mistaken for a spy by local authorities. After being stopped by the police and thoroughly interrogated, he was eventually released with an apology after explaining that he was just a travelling writer. Despite the unexpected and frightening situation, Theroux managed to find humour in the absurdity of being seen as a spy, later sharing the story as a light-hearted anecdote.
In all corners of the World
After his famous journey detailed in The Great Railway Bazaar, Paul Theroux went on to write numerous other travel books, including The Old Patagonian Express, which describes his journey by train from Boston to Argentina. Along the way, he faced challenges like harsh climates, including the extreme altitudes of Peru and the Bolivian plateau, and had a memorable encounter with the famed writer Jorge Luis Borges in Buenos Aires.
In his works about the Americas, Theroux captures the vibrant energy and diversity of the region. He vividly describes colourful cities, dramatic landscapes, and the rich cultural heritage, while also exploring the political, economic, and social challenges faced by many South American countries.
Theroux also travelled through the Middle East, visiting countries like Israel, Jordan, Yemen, Egypt, Turkey, and the UAE. His books, The Pillars of Hercules and The Elephanta Suite, document his experiences in this region.
The Grand Canyon, USA: «In the Grand Canyon, I felt like a tiny speck in the grandeur of nature, as the towering cliffs rose from the depths like a monument to the endless power and beauty of time.»
Machu Picchu, Peru: «Machu Picchu emerged from the mist as a mysterious and majestic symbol of past greatness, and I felt as if I had stepped into another time and world while exploring the ruins, with the sound of the Andes echoing in the background.»
Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia: «At Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest salt flat, I was greeted by an endless white landscape stretching to the horizon like a shining sea of crystals, and I marvelled at the creative force of nature.»
Theroux has also taken readers on a journey around Britain in The Kingdom by the Sea, and from Cairo to Cape Town in Dark Star Safari. In 2015, he published Deep South, chronicling four road trips through the southern states of the U.S. His 2019 book, On the Plain of Snakes, recounts his extensive travels through Mexico in his own car.
Among his non-fiction works is Sir Vidia's Shadow, which explores his personal and professional relationship with Nobel laureate V.S. Naipaul over 30 years.
Unstoppable Paul Theroux
Paul Theroux has travelled extensively across Europe, visiting countries like Italy, the UK, France, Germany, and Russia. His books, such as The Pillars of Hercules and The Kingdom by the Sea, explore different parts of the continent. He also wrote short travel narratives for magazines, including one about his time in Italy.
In one such article, shared on the Silversea cruise website, Theroux recounts his experiences from the summer of 1963:
«Wandering in Italy, along the Adriatic coast, I made my way inland to the hill town of Urbino, where I accidentally landed a job teaching English. It was the best job I ever had, in one of the most beautiful towns I had ever seen. All my students were young Italian women. I lived next to the Ducal Palace. My salary was modest, but I had a room and all my meals provided. The best part of the day was lunchtime with other teachers and some students—always long and talkative, with my witty and informative colleagues... Italy was my first great journey, my first immersion in the sensory world, my introduction to delicious food and dramatic landscapes, to masterpieces of art and architecture, to grandeur, to instinctive generosity... Italy was the ancient past in its churches and ruins, but it was ultra-modern in popular culture. This was the era of classic Italian films—Fellini's La Dolce Vita, Antonioni's L'Avventura, and the work of Visconti and Pasolini. Italian design was innovative—the compact minimalism of the Olivetti typewriter, the sleek lines of Ferrari, and the stylish cuts of Italian clothing.»
Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia: «At Plitvice Lakes National Park, I was greeted by a paradise of turquoise lakes and lush forests dancing in harmony with secluded nature, and I felt as if I had discovered one of Europe’s best-kept natural treasures.»
Theroux has also explored countries in South America like Brazil, Argentina, Chile, Peru, and Ecuador, recounting his experiences in books such as The Mosquito Coast and The Old Patagonian Express.
Ayers Rock: In Australia, he captured the magnificence of Ayers Rock (Uluru): «Ayers Rock stood as a majestic sentinel over the Australian outback, and I was overwhelmed by the rugged beauty of the red rock as it was bathed in the warm light of sunrise.»
Great Barrier Reef: Of the Great Barrier Reef, he wrote: «Beneath the surface of the Great Barrier Reef, I experienced a world of vibrant coral and exotic sea creatures dancing in the crystal-clear turquoise water, and I felt as if I had stepped into a dream world of beauty and mystery.»
Socotra, Yemen: «On Socotra, a forgotten gem in the Indian Ocean, I was astonished by the bizarre and unique plants that adorned the island, and I felt as if I had stepped into another world full of rare treasures and mystery.»
Petra, Jordan: «In Petra, I was mesmerized by the intricate rock formations and the mythical landscape that had been a hidden refuge for ancient civilizations and secret treasures for centuries.»
His 1992 travel narrative The Happy Isles of Oceania details a journey across the Pacific, visiting New Zealand, Australia, Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, Fiji, Tonga, Samoa, Tahiti, the Cook Islands, Easter Island, and Hawaii.
Even Antarctica made its way into his travel repertoire. During this trip, Theroux humorously recounted swimming in the icy waters alongside curious penguins, despite wearing a thick suit to stay warm.
Film and literary contributions
In addition to his travel writings, Theroux has written acclaimed literary novels, including The Mosquito Coast (1982), which was adapted into a film, and Chinese Box, set during the 1997 handover of Hong Kong from Britain to China, starring Jeremy Irons and Gong Li. The film is based on his book Kowloon Tong.
Over the years, Theroux has written essays, memoirs, and short stories. With over 50 books published, he has been honoured with numerous literary awards and recognitions for his remarkable work.
Paul Theroux's political engagement
Paul Theroux has been outspoken on various political and social issues, often criticizing the rise of mass tourism and the commercialization of travel experiences. He has expressed concern that the authentic nature of travel is being eroded by the superficial consumerism associated with modern tourism.
Theroux has also been critical of political leaders, condemning their inability to address societal challenges effectively. He has critiqued international organizations such as the United Nations for bureaucratic inefficiency, and authoritarian leaders like Vladimir Putin and Xi Jinping for human rights abuses.
Furthermore, Theroux has examined the legacy of Western colonialism and its ongoing influence in developing countries. He has highlighted how colonial powers exploited and oppressed local populations, leading to enduring challenges in those regions. He has been particularly critical of corrupt governments in these countries for perpetuating poverty and repression through corruption and clientelism.
In addition, Theroux has voiced concern over Donald Trump's leadership and policies, describing him as divisive and unfit for the presidency. He has condemned Trump's stances on immigration, foreign policy, and environmental issues, noting that his rhetoric has exacerbated divisions within American society.
In his 2016 book «Deep South,» Theroux explored economically depressed areas of the southern United States, observing the anger and despair that he believed contributed to Trump's rise in popularity.
In a 2017 article, Theroux reflected on a biblical passage from Proverbs, contemplating how some Christians reconcile their support for a president exhibiting traits the passage condemns, such as pride and dishonesty.
In 2019, Theroux discussed his motivation for writing «On the Plain of Snakes: A Mexican Journey,» citing Trump's disparagement and stereotyping of Mexicans as a catalyst for his travels and writing.
Still going strong
Despite being 83 years old, Paul Theroux remains an active and prolific writer. His recent works include On the Plain of Snakes: A Mexican Journey (2019) and Under the Wave at Waimea (2021). The Providence Journal lauded his Mexican journey, stating:
«This magnificent recreation of Paul Theroux's journey through Mexico in 2017 sparkles with his bright, laser-sharp declarative sentences, stripped of any sentimentality, as he pursues revelations and insights.»
The Washington Post also praised his work, highlighting that Theroux, while known for taking trains (as in Riding the Iron Rooster and The Great Railway Bazaar), chose to drive during his travels in Mexico. This decision allowed him to explore villages and landmarks he might have otherwise missed, presenting a nuanced picture of a country filled with both challenges and beauty.
Renowned Mexican journalist and playwright Juan Villoro described Theroux as an undisputed master of travel literature. He remarked, «He has crossed Mexico with such dedication that he knows the roads as well as he knows the lines in his palm. His curiosity recognizes no borders. He is not a stranger among us; he is Don Pablo, a wise man who never stops learning.»
Currently, Theroux is garnering attention for his book Burma Sahib. The New York Times noted, «Paul Theroux has exploited this biographical lacuna with great cunning and enthusiasm... his fictional account of Blair's life in Burma is a valid and wholly credible attempt to flesh out the fragile facts we have from that time... this novel is one of his best in a long and admirable career.»
Theroux is also very active on his website, Facebook, and Instagram. In a 2021 interview with Firstpost, he mentioned that there are still many places he has yet to visit. He expressed a lack of interest in traveling to Scandinavia but emphasized his desire to return to places he has already been.
«There is value in going back to a country you visited when you were younger. It marks both time in your own life and serves as a kind of benchmark for how society changes,» he explained.
He believes that revisiting familiar places can provide insights into the direction of the world:
«What will happen to the world? You find that you can draw conclusions by visiting a place you knew well. Going back to England, back to Malawi, back to China, to India. It's a fascinating thing. So if you ask me what travels I look forward to: I like to return to places.»
