North Korea reopens: At the crossroads of China and Russia
- Paul Aage Hegvik
- Feb 9
- 5 min read
Updated: Mar 19
After a prolonged hiatus, North Korea has reopened its borders to international tourists, offering a rare opportunity to explore the city of Rason.
Situated at the confluence of the Tumen and Yalu rivers, Rason is North Korea's only Special Economic Zone, uniquely positioned near the borders of China and Russia. This strategic location has fostered a distinctive economic environment, allowing for limited market activities and private ownership, setting it apart from the rest of the country.
Remember: Travelers are strongly encouraged to consult their respective government's travel advisories and carefully consider the risks before planning any travel to North Korea.
Exploring Rason: A unique itinerary
Tour operators are now offering structured five-day itineraries to Rason, providing visitors with a curated experience of this unique city. The tours typically commence in Yanji, China, where participants receive a pre-tour briefing before crossing the border into North Korea.
Highlights of the itinerary include:
Cultural experiences: Visitors can engage in activities such as kimchi-making classes, offering a hands-on introduction to Korean culinary traditions.
Educational visits: The tours include visits to local institutions like a school uniform factory, providing insights into the daily life and industries within Rason.
Recreational activities: Participants can enjoy a cruise to Pipha Island to observe local wildlife, including seals, and attend a taekwondo demonstration, showcasing traditional Korean martial arts.
Economic landscape of Rason
Rason's designation as a Special Economic Zone has facilitated a more open economic environment compared to other parts of North Korea. This status has attracted foreign investment and allowed for private ownership of property, enabling residents to buy and sell homes and open private bank accounts. The presence of a casino further underscores the city's unique economic landscape.
Considerations for travelers
While the reopening of Rason presents a unique opportunity to experience a different facet of North Korea, travelers should be aware of the highly controlled nature of tourism in the country. All visits are conducted under strict supervision, and interactions with locals are limited. Additionally, there are inherent risks associated with travel to North Korea, including the potential for arrest and detention under the country's stringent laws.
Rason: Key facts
Location: Rason is located in the northeastern part of North Korea, at the confluence of the Tumen and Yalu rivers, bordering China and Russia.
Population: Approximately 200,000 people live in Rason.
Establishment: Rason was established as a Special Economic Zone (SEZ) in 1991 to attract foreign investment and boost economic growth.
Economic Zone: It is the only SEZ in North Korea, allowing for some private enterprise, foreign investment, and limited market activities.
Unique Features: The city has a casino, private property ownership rights, and access to international trade, making it different from other regions in North Korea.
Tourism: It reopened to international tourists in 2024, offering guided tours that highlight the area's cultural and economic distinctions.
Transportation: Rason has a port, airport, and a railway line, facilitating trade and transportation.
Notable Sites: Visitors can explore a school uniform factory, attend taekwondo demonstrations, and enjoy outdoor activities like cruises to nearby islands.
Several foreigners arrested
Over the past decade, several foreign tourists have been arrested in North Korea, primarily for actions deemed hostile or illegal by the North Korean government. These incidents highlight the strict regulations governing foreign visitors and the severe consequences of non-compliance.
Notable Cases
Otto Warmbier (2016): The American student was detained for attempting to steal a propaganda poster from his hotel. He was sentenced to 15 years of hard labor and was released in a comatose state in 2017, later succumbing to his injuries.
Kim Sang-duk (Tony Kim) and Kim Hak-song (2017): Both American citizens were arrested on charges of committing "hostile acts" against the state. They were released in 2018 after serving approximately 1.5 years in detention.
Matthew Miller (2014): The American was detained for attempting to commit espionage by entering North Korea under a tourist visa and seeking asylum. He was sentenced to six years of hard labor and was released in 2015.
Common reasons for detention
Illegal entry: Entering North Korea without proper authorization or through unauthorized channels.
Hostile acts: Engaging in activities perceived as subversive or critical of the North Korean government, including attempts to steal propaganda materials or distribute religious texts.
Espionage: Allegations of gathering intelligence or attempting to overthrow the government.
These cases underscore the importance of adhering strictly to North Korea's regulations and guidelines for foreign visitors. Engaging in activities deemed illegal or hostile can lead to severe penalties, including lengthy imprisonment or worse.
Traveling to North Korea: Essential tips and advice
Book Through Authorized Tours: All travel to North Korea must be arranged through a licensed tour operator. Independent travel is not allowed, and tours are strictly controlled by the government.
Understand the rules: Be aware of the country’s strict regulations. Respect for the government, leaders, and local customs is paramount. Avoid engaging in political discussions or taking photos in restricted areas.
Limited interaction with locals: Direct interaction with locals is restricted, and most tours will be accompanied by guides. Be mindful of the limited freedom during your stay.
Carry a valid Passport and visa: A visa is required to enter North Korea. Your tour operator will help arrange this, but ensure your passport is valid for at least six months beyond your planned return.
Follow instructions on photography: Photography is heavily restricted. Always follow your guide’s instructions regarding where and what you can photograph.
Avoid political conversations: Refrain from discussing sensitive topics, such as politics, or making negative remarks about the country or its leaders.
Be prepared for limited internet access: Internet access is extremely limited, and most international websites are blocked. Stay in touch with family or friends before leaving or use a trusted communication method advised by your tour operator.
Respect local customs: Dress modestly and avoid behaviors considered disrespectful, such as public displays of affection or loud talking.
Understand health and safety: Medical facilities are basic, so carry any medications you may need. Travel insurance should cover emergency evacuation, as North Korea’s health system is limited.
Travel advisories
Several countries have issued travel advisories regarding North Korea, highlighting significant risks associated with travel to the region. Below are excerpts from some of these advisories:
United States
The U.S. Department of State advises against all travel to North Korea due to the continuing serious risk of arrest and long-term detention of U.S. nationals. They emphasize the critical threat of wrongful detention and note that the security situation can change with little notice.
Canada
The Government of Canada advises avoiding all travel to North Korea due to the uncertain security situation caused by its nuclear weapons development program and highly repressive regime. They highlight that there is no resident Canadian government office in the country, limiting their ability to provide consular assistance.
United Kingdom
The UK's Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office advises against all but essential travel to North Korea. They note that the level of tension on the Korean Peninsula remains high and that the security situation can change quickly with no advance warning, posing significant risks to British visitors and residents.
Australia
The Australian Government advises against all travel to North Korea due to the very different laws affecting visitors and the uncertain security situation. They note that North Korea's borders remain effectively closed for Australians and most other nationalities, with tours suspended until further notice.
New Zealand
The New Zealand Government advises against all travel to North Korea due to extensive restrictions placed on foreigners, the serious risk of arrest and detention, and an uncertain security situation. They emphasize that independent tourism is not allowed, and foreigners are closely monitored and expected to be accompanied by a guide at all times.
These advisories underscore the significant risks associated with travel to North Korea, including the potential for arbitrary arrest and detention, limited consular assistance, and an unpredictable security environment.
